Tucked away on the Upper East Side, deep within the recesses of the Neue Galerie, you'll find Cafe Sabarsky, an authentic Viennese pastry shop named for its founder. The brunch line stretches out the door of the Galerie onto 5th Ave., so if you go on a Sunday, arrive early with a book or friend in tow to keep you occupied.

The interior is dark and wooden, the tables white marble. Lucky patrons get to dine in upholstered booths in front of bay windows with a view into Central Park. The menu is full of winter soups, exotic breads, and more variations on coffee that I thought were possible--I had the relatively simple steamed cream and espresso served on a tray with a tiny glass of water, presumably to clear my palate for the main course. The standard Journal and Times are accompanied by decor-appropriate German newspapers, all free to take to read with brunch. They actually come with old-fashioned newspaper page holders, which I never figured out how to use, but enjoyed just the same.

The clientele is largely foreign, which I take as a good sign of the Cafe's purported authenticity. Comfort-brunchers hoping to stick with waffles/OJ/eggs should probably beware. The menu is delicious and eclectic (I chose avocado stuffed with crab meat and cherry tomatoes), but those who find 2:00 PM is a bit early for crab might want to stick with Deluxe.

College students beware: it's pricey, but a true pleasantry. A good place to go with your parents, or your significant other and his or her parents. And though the foods are a bit heavy compared with usual M'side brunch fare, walk it off by heading down Museum Mile or wandering around the Neue.

- JNW