Blue and White Managing Editor Katie Reedy spent her winter break in Guatemala with a nascent NGO called DreamWeavers. Here, her dispatches from Nebaj, Guatemala City, and San Pedro. (Ed. note: All images from Google, since there are no camera cords in San Pedro.)
Nine days ago, we ended up in Nebaj.
Up blind curves with no guard rails, swerving to avoid the 'chicken buses,' the 1970's-era American school buses festooned with colorful paint and religious slogans that are used for common transportation in Guatemala, our van climbed higher into the altiplano. Windows open, bachata and salsa blasting, duffle bags rolling around on the roof, the van ascended the mountains at an alarming speed, stopping only to let girls vomit and shit in the woods to rid themselves of the queso they ate on the streets of San Pedro the night before.
Nebaj, one of most remote villages in Guatemala, is so high up that there are clouds in the streets. The people rarely speak Spanish (Mayan Ixil and Quiche, instead), old ex-guerrilla guides sadly point out hills where their fellows fought and hid during the decades-long civil war, and maintaining standards of sanitation is a distant priority after hauling enough wood for fires and reaping maize from steep mountainsides. The whole place was dark and corroded, faces more taut than in the warm lake towns-- probably due to the fact that more than 100,000 people in the area were killed in a genocide that ended just 13 years ago. The plan was to arrive in Nebaj, stay at a Peace Corps-built hostel, hike for two days to visit even more remote settlements in the mountains, and then book it back to the warm recesses of San Pedro La Laguna, our home base.
Our optimistic 24-girl group set off up the trail mountain. We had come to Guatemala for various reasons-- some for the volunteer work, some to document local cooperatives and fair trade movements, some for vacation-- but all under the auspices of DreamWeavers, an NGO put together by Kai Zhang, BC '09. We had bonded after a week of hanging out with schoolchildren and exploring Lake Atitlan, and it was time to test our bonds by hiking the Cuchumatanes.